Textiles & Carnival: Bolivia

February 1- 14, 2018

Arrive in La Paz from home in the morning of February 1. Depart for home on February 15.

OVERVIEW: This is a fabulous 14-night Carnival and textile tour to see the best of Bolivia – the intricate weaving and the amazing knitting, a peaceful rural hacienda, historical places such as colonial Sucre and the famous silver-mining city of Potosi, the exciting city of LaPaz – and finally the amazing Carnival celebration, with elaborate costumes, masks and music.

TRIP DETAILS: We’ll plan our flights (preferably on American Airlines #922 at 10:35pm out of Miami), to arrive, and meet in the early morning at El Alto International Airport in La Paz, literally ‘the Heights!’  To acclimate as soon as possible, we’ll take a connecting flight – 1 hour – and descend directly to the beautiful city of Sucre where we will spend the next few days. Check into our lovely hotel, in an 18th C mansion, with terraces full of flowers, below; take a city tour and visit a fascinating handmade felted Hat Factory! Sucre is one of two capitals of Bolivia (with LaPaz) and despite its population today of around 300,000, the historical center with its notable colonial architecture is pleasant to stroll around in. Sucre is also the center of expert textile production.

History of the city is interesting; in 1559, the Spanish King Philip II established the Audiencia of Charcas (high court of justice) in Sucre, with authority over an area of present-day Paraguay, southeastern Peru, northern Chile and Argentina, and much of Bolivia! In 1624 St. Francis Xavier University of Chuquisaca was founded here; it is one of the oldest universities of the New World, housed in a magnificent building.

We’ll visit the University’s Anthropology Museum, with good folklore and ethnography exhibits, and the local market with crafts, textiles and produce.  We’ll also see the superb textiles at the excellent ASUR Textile Museum, in a 17th C colonial home. This small museum and the museum shop show and sell traditional pieces from the towns surrounding Sucre: Ravelo, Potolo, Tarabuco, and Candelaria. Watch weavers at work in the courtyard, using different techniques and oblique looms. Later, relax on the hotel’s rooftop terraces or walk around Sucre’s pretty central plaza, only three blocks from our Hotel.

On Sunday, we’ll leave early for the town of Tarabuco and its weekly market full of textiles and all the usual garden produce. People living in this area maintain their traditional culture, evident in their unusual dress, interesting customs, and Quechua language. Men typically wear rounded, black leather helmets, called monteras, reminiscent of the conquistadors’ helmets, with colorful hand-woven ponchos, pants and sandals. Women also wear hand-woven clothing with boat-shaped hats, and adolescents and some women wear yet another type of hat, a tightly crocheted, black version called a “tadpole” hat because of the tail in back.

Next day we’ll drive by private van to the historical silver mining city of Potosi (3 hours, with interesting stops along the way). It is known as the world’s ‘highest city’ and is notable for the riches (and tragedies) of its mining history. In the mid-1500s, the founding of the city and the discovery of fabulously rich silver veins went hand in hand. By the end of the 18th century, Potosi had grown into the largest and wealthiest city in all of Latin America; many beautiful colonial churches and buildings still hint at this former splendor. We’ll visit the Carmelite Santa Theresa Convent that dates from the late 1600s; it has amazing art and artifacts, and shows a sad but interesting part of old Spanish-Catholic-influenced history. Visit the Royal Mint (Casa de la Moneda) if there is interest, where colonial coins were produced on a variety of machines.

141-400x400Then we’ll drive a short ways outside of Potosi, through a dramatic agricultural valley to our rural Hacienda (left), arriving in the afternoon. We’ll spend two nights at this peaceful retreat, relaxing and reading, knitting, hiking, etc. The farm and mansion date from colonial times; Hacienda Cayara was an encomienda (grant by the Spanish Crown to a colonist in America) whose title dated from 1557, making it the first hacienda in “New Toledo,” or present day Bolivia. The rural hacienda remains a working farm, producing vegetables and dairy products for its own guests, and to be sold in the city. Staying there is like relaxing in a comfortable, antique-filled home of a gracious friend; the library, private chapel and museum are fascinating. The focal point of the living room is a cozy fireplace, and we’ll have delicious and typical meals in the dining room.

We’ll drive out to weaving villages, 52 km. to Potolo. In this rural area, local women weave the well-known red and black textiles (photo at bottom) and men weave brilliant tapestries full of animals and birds. These indigenous communities that belong to the Jalq’a ethnic group maintain their traditional culture in the architecture of the houses, the agricultural techniques and especially in the handmade textile production, which is totally unique. Knitting is also fine and detailed in villages around Potosi; we will see examples.

Apple AnataFinally ¡¡CARNAVAL!! We’ll drive to Oruro, arriving in time to see the indigenous people’s carnival called Anata Andina on Thursday. Invited groups of villagers from far and near converge in Oruro, wearing their very best, newly hand-woven clothing and hand-knit caps. Their brilliant outfits are often adorned with bundles of greens or strands of fruits and vegetables, as symbols of fertility. The musicians play wooden flutes and handmade drums. Llamas or sheep sometimes accompany the groups. On Friday at mid-morning we’ll go to the main market for the delicious treat of Api, the hot, sweet corn drink and fried Pasteles with powdered sugar – yum! We’ll visit one of the other markets, and perhaps watch some Carnival preparations.

Go to bed early in preparation for the big event tomorrow: Saturday Entrada, or grand opening of Carnival. There are approximately 50 groups with hundreds of dancers each, so it is a huge event. The goal is to dance the whole route, right up to the church on the hill, three kilometers. These groups are different Bolivians from the villagers; they are apt to be system programmers or teachers, taxi drivers, or doctors and lawyers. They dress in masks and costumes that are intricate and expensive – and sometimes uncomfortable, as in the case of the girls dancing the entire 3 km. parade route in tall boots with platform heels! The main day, the Entrada of Carnival is an all-day event, often ending at 2-3am; we will have bleacher seats – and sandwiches/drinks for lunch.

DSC04350_1You may watch as much or as little as you like, of course. There is a huge variety of costumes: Devil dancers, furry bears, Morenadas in huge embroidered cardboard outfits, Caporales with bells on their boots, and so forth. There are five devil groups called Diabladas with both men and women performing various roles in the dance. Cynthia will do a presentation and hand-outs about the many groups, so you will know a bit more about what you are seeing! The whole event is really spectacular. You might want to watch from the bleachers for a few hours, then relax at the hotel for a while, then go back out to watch the night-time displays.

One Devil group that performs late has light-up masks and pipes that shoot out propane flames! Finally, drive back to La Paz with time to visit the town. Check into our sweet hotel, have lunch, then walk down Sacarnaga, the street of textiles – and spend the rest of the day exploring La Paz on your own. Next day is a free day in La Paz; you could take an optional day trip to the archeological site of Tiawanaku. Our hotel’s tour department has convenient and good Tiawanaku guided van tours which include lunch, for a nominal cost. The Museum of Ethnography and Folklore is very interesting with drawers full of very accessible textiles to admire. We’ll have our Valentine’s Day Farewell Dinner on this last night, then get a good sleep for early departure the next morning, February 15.

Potolo-Ravelo LOW

BOLIVIA TEXTILE & CARNIVAL TOUR PRICE:  $4125  Single supplement $535

INCLUDES:

  • 14 nights accommodation double/twin rooms with private bath, in boutique hotels where available, historical buildings, and a rural hacienda with modern plumbing
  • All meals, soft drinks and water with meals (except 2 lunches and 1 dinner on your own)
  • Air flight from LA PAZ to SUCRE
  • All transportation by private van to textile villages
  • Bleacher seats and box lunch during two Carnival days
  • All entrance fees to the museums, archaeological sites and group events on itinerary
  • Visits to textile-producing villages near Sucre and Potosi
  • 2 Spanish- and English-speaking tour leaders/textile/festival experts to accompany the tour
  • Specialized local English-speaking guide for village tours
  • Airport departure on group departure day

PERU and BOLIVIA

November 2013 2 Trips!

PERU AND BOLIVIA TEXTILE & CULTURE TOURS

TWO TOURS:
PERU – Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Highland Villages: November 4-16  (13 days)
BOLIVIA – Lake Titicaca, Sucre, Potosi , Highland Villages:  November 17-26 (10 days)

Cyn& Roberto

These two exciting tours are led by me, Cynthia LeCount Samake, and Claudia Avila [below, dyeing wool], who is Behind the Scenes’ South America expert.
I’m an expert on Andean culture and indigenous textiles, and the author of “Andean Folk Knitting: Techniques and Traditions of Peru and Bolivia.” I have been to Peru and Bolivia about 42 times in the past 35 years, and every trip is magical!

Claudia is an experienced and organized trip leader, with excellent Spanish, a ready smile and a positive attitude. Her main specialty is world cuisine, and on these two trips, we will eat in some of the best restaurants in Peru and Bolivia. She will show us local markets with unusual traditional ingredients which you may want to try–such as purple potatoes or roasted Guinea pig!

Claudia dyes hotBehind the Scenes cultural and textile tours are for learning, exploration, expanding our worlds–and having a good time! Everyone is welcome!  We will visit highland villages where the people make all their own clothes, and we will explore Inka sites such as Machu Picchu and the huge ceremonial site of Sacsa-huayman.  In Bolivia, we stay at the edge of Lake Titicaca and visit friends on the Urus Islands in the lake; we also visit a working mine in Potosi and sleep in a historic hacienda.

TWO TOURS for Fall 2013:
PERU – Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Highland Villages: November 4-16  (13 days)
BOLIVIA – Lake Titicaca, Sucre, Potosi , Highland Villages:  November 17-26 (10 days)

SOAR ad maybeYou can sign up for either trip or both together.

The PERU trip includes the possibility of attending the optional weaving conference called TINKUY, the Weavers’ Gathering, sponsored by the Center for Traditional Textiles in Cuzco (CTTC). The Center helps highland villages to market their textiles and has had a very positive economic impact on many remote areas.

If you don’t plan to attend the conference, Claudia and I have planned some fabulous activities, see itinerary below, including visiting villages. Textile Center Director, Nilda Callanaupa and I have coordinated the dates of the PERU TOUR so that Tinkuy falls at the end it, then the BOLIVIA TOUR begins. A tax-deductible donation of $250 to CTTC is included in the tour price for the Peru portion.

DATES AND ACTIVITIES for PERU TRIP
Note that 3 meals a day are included except in a few places where a lunch or dinner is ‘on your own.’ Breakfast is always included, in our hotels.

Nov. 4  Arrive in LIMA today, usually in the evening. No visa necessary; they will stamp our passports at Immigration in the airport. You will be met at the airport by Claudia and/or Cynthia and taken to our charming Miraflores neighborhood hotel for a good night’s sleep. (If you arrive after 10 pm, the hotel will send the hotel taxi driver with a Behind the Scenes Adventures sign to pick you up.)

Nov. 5  A wonderful day in the temperate seaside city of LIMA! Two great museums: Larco Herrera for some textiles but especially Moche period portrait pots and other vessels such as bats, snakes, llamas, crabs, potatoes, even corn pots; and Amano Museum for fabulous pre-Hispanic textiles, especially Chimu cotton gauze weave shrouds. We’ll have lunch and dinner at some of Lima’s great restaurants. Each day during the trip, Claudia will take us to lunch and dinner at special places where she loves to eat!Pitumarka WVR.PPT

Nov. 6   Fly over the Andes to CUZCO, 1 hour flight. Check in to our centrally-located and heritage building hotel. Eat lunch then stroll around city to acclimate.
Visit the excellent Museum at Center for Traditional Textiles of Cuzco, CTTC. Buy white alpaca yarn from the Michell alpaca shop, around the corner from the hotel, for dyeing on Friday–white, and maybe some of the gorgeous colors!

Nov. 7  Textile village visit–Visit the Andean village of Pitumarca to meet our old friends here who are amazing knitters and weavers. You will be able to see the contemporary knitting and weaving of this Quechua-speaking community and buy some of their beautiful work. Picnic lunch in the weaving compound.
Visit the famous little Andahuaylilas church; meet male knitters from Sallac who employ the cleverest techniques for their complex, multicolored caps.

Nov. 8  Drive about an  hour, over beautiful rolling hills of quinua and potato fields, to Chinchero (Nilda Callanaupa’s village). We will have a half-day natural dye workshop with the ladies here. Color your white alpaca yarn with cochineal, one of their favorite dyes, or another choice from their supply of flowers, leaves and lichen that make their rich colors. Picnic lunch. Rest of afternoon free in Cuzco.

Nov. 9  Train to Machu Picchu National Park (UNESCO Cultural Heritage site), visit the magical place with professional guide, then free time in the ruins; overnight in Machu Picchu Village at Terrazas del Inka.

Ocongate-KARI

Nov. 10   Visit MP National Park again in the morning. The first shuttle bus departs for the site around 5:30 am. People talk of the ‘sunrise’ at MP, but in reality, it is most often clouded over. Maybe you’ll be lucky!
In any case, if you arrive early, you can climb Huayna Picchu, the peak at the far end of Machu Picchu. The climb is much easier than it looks, because there are steps the whole way, and even a firmly attached chain to hang onto, on the steepest part. I have climbed it 3-4 times, and the view is absolutely spectacular from the top! Return to Cuzco on afternoon train.

Nov. 11  Stroll through Cuzco town, peek into the Cathedral, continue across the Plaza de Armas, to the street of the 12-angled stone, one fabulous stone in a whole foundation of amazing stonework walls. Continue to Plaza San Blas, visit the Pre-Hispanic Museum, have tea or a drink at the beautiful old convent hotel. Walk back down and have lunch at Jack’s, just in case anyone is feeling homesick! After lunch, walk down Triunfo Street, visiting favorite jewelers, and the suede/textile bootmaker.

Nov. 12  FREE morning. Lunch then drive up to Sacsahuayman, spectacular Inka fortress /ceremonial site above Cuzco. Sacsahuayman is known for amazingly huge stones fitted into zigzag walls, set around a grassy central area. Continue to the Inka fountains/’baths’ at Tambomachay and admire the fabulous stone carving. We will also visit the Inka Museum, near the Plaza de Armas, above, right. 

OPTION: TINKUY event begins late this afternoon.

Cuzco cathedral

Nov. 13  Ascend to a remote village and meet many of my old friends: knitters, weavers and 7-year old Little Cynthia, my namesake! below, with her mom, Andrea. (Lil Cynthia’s father, Roberto, is in the photo above, with me also.)  This high, barren village is the least prosperous of the Textile Center’s project villages; you might bring school supplies that we can donate to the teacher here. These people will be working on their textiles.
You can feel 
comfortable here and in other CTTC project villages, watching interesting techniques and taking pictures. The weavers and knitters may have some intricately patterned textiles that you can purchase directly from the maker; items you buy greatly help to improve their standard of living; see weaver working on a complex pattern at right. Dinner on your own.Andrea + Little Cynthia-low

OPTION: TINKUY activities during the day.

Nov. 14  In the  morning, we’ll head out of Cuzco by van to see two fascinating sites. First Moray, the circular Inka agricultural terraces: note in photo below, right, the dots on different levels at 12 o’clock are people! Then we’ll view Maras, the huge site of salt evaporation pits, built into a hillside.

Visually Maras is also spectacular, white basins ringed with brown earth. When we return, we’ll have lunch in town then free time in the afternoon. (Cynthia can show you favorite little stores and artisans’ workshops if you want to buy something special.)    OPTION: TINKUY activities during the day.

Nov. 15  Morning visit to TicaTica, the women’s knitting cooperative that friend Hilda organizes, to see their work. These women design and make beautifully patterned alpaca sweaters, by hand and on basic knitting machines. There will be some of their colorful sweaters available here to buy. Lunch with the ladies.

After lunch, we’ll visit a ceramic studio where they make vessels but also buttons and beads. In late afternoon, free time. I will teach a mini-workshop on Andean decorative techniques to anyone interested. I can show you the little scalloped edging found on many knitted caps (chullos), and the bobbly finger-crocheted yarn made in several villages and incorporated into the knitting. Dinner on your own.   OPTION: TINKUY activities during the day.

Alpacas-cropNov. 16    FREE DAY in Cuzco. (Depart for home tomorrow, November 17 OR continue to Bolivia on the 17th.)

For the BOLIVIA TEXTILE TOUR travelers, this is your last day in Cuzco before we depart tomorrow for Lake Titicaca and Bolivia. By now you will know Cuzco well, and will probably want to return to some shops for final purchases, or museums for some more time with the ancient pieces. You might just hang out at the Starbucks above the plaza and people-watch all day! Lunch on your own. Andean Folk music show with Farewell Dinner.

PRICES:

PERU TEXTILE TOUR: $3705 plus $395 Tinkuy conference registration fee payable to CTTC
PERU TEXTILE TOUR: $3795 without conference

Both prices include a tax-deductible $250 donation to Textile Center of Cuzco.

Single Supplement  $550

INCLUDED:
• 13 nights accommodation in boutique or heritage hotels
• All meals, soft drinks and water with meals (except a few meals on your own, as noted)
• Bottled water in the van on day trips
• LIMA – CUZCO round-trip flight – (or one-way if you continue into Bolivia)
• All transportation within Peru by private van
• All group airport arrival and departure transport on designated arrival day
• All entrance fees to the museums, archaeological sites and group events on the itinerary
• Natural dye workshop in village (you buy the white alpaca yarn)
• 2 Spanish- and English-speaking tour leaders/textile expert to accompany the tour
• Private professional, licensed guide at Machu Picchu.

To combine the PERU and BOLIVIA tours, American has good prices on Muli-City fares, for combining the itineraries.  FLY into LIMA [code LIM] and FLY HOME from LA PAZ [code LPB]

DATES AND ACTIVITIES for BOLIVIA TRIP

Altiplano.AlpacaNov. 17  Visit Pisac Market on our way out of Cuzco. Drive to Puno, over the high altiplano, seeing herds of specially bred white alpacas along the way. Stop to photograph them and the snowy peaks in the distance. Cross the La Raya pass at almost 15,000 feet, get out and feel the altitude take your breath away! Arrive in Puno for the night, at the edge of Lake Titicaca.

Nov. 18  Early next morning, we’ll board a motorboat to cross a small part of Lake Titicaca to visit the Urus Islands, home of my young god -daughter, Anita, above right. Her parents and family will show us island life and their traditions, then we head back to Puno. Pick up our bags from the hotel, and drive in the van to the border with Bolivia. Cross the border (we can get visas upon arrival–at a steep $135) and continue over the high plains dotted with small villages near the lake. Overnight in Copacabana at the edge of Lake Titicaca in a beautiful eco-hotel, where every room has a lake view, excellent restaurant here.

Nov. 19  Explore the little town of Copacabana this morning. There is an impressive Moorish-influenced Cathedral on the small plaza; check out the beautiful hand-carved doors with images of Lake Titicaca myths. Also there is a Poncho Museum that may be open. The super-energetic can climb up the hill of the Seven Stations of the Cross, for amazing 360 degree views out over Lake Titicaca.  Bus for LaPaz (same good company as hotel) leaves around 1pm, after we have lunch of delicious pink lake trout or other dish.  Arrive La Paz in a few hours and check in to hotel. Walk around the neighborhood which is in the interesting “Indian Market” area. We will have more time to explore La Paz when we return. You may also leave bags at the hotel when we head south to Sucre. Overnight La Paz.Potolo-Bolivia

Nov. 20   Up early for morning flight from LaPaz to Sucre, 1 hour flight. Check into our lovely hotel, in an 18th C mansion, with wonderful view terraces full of flowers. Lunch, then visit ASUR Textile Museum (Museo de Atre Indigena), in a 17th C colonial home. This small museum shows excellent traditional textiles from the towns surrounding Sucre—Ravelo, Potolo, Tarabuco, Candelaria, etc. Watch weavers at work in the courtyard, using different techniques and oblique looms (which we did not see before on our visits to weaving villages in Peru). Visit University Anthropology Museum, with good folklore and ethnography exhibits, if time/energy allow.

Relax on the hotel’s rooftop terraces or walk around Sucre’s pretty central plaza, only three blocks from our Hotel. Dinner near the hotel. (Since we will be coming back to this hotel, you may leave extra bags here in safe storage while we are on the road.) Overnight Sucre.

Nov. 21 Potosi
Drive in van to Potosi (3 hours with interesting stops along the way), considered the world’s highest city and known for the riches and tragedies of its mining history.  The founding of the city and the discovery of fabulously rich silver veins went hand in hand, in the mid-1500s. By the end of the 18th C, Potosi had grown into the largest and wealthiest city in all of Latin America, and many beautiful colonial churches and building still hint at this former splendor.

Lunch, then to the HACIENDA in afternoon. The Hacienda is a peaceful retreat in the valley near Potosi, and it dates from colonial times when the opulent mansion was owned by the Viceroy of Toledo. The hacienda remains a working farm, producing vegetables and dairy products for the city. Staying there is like relaxing in a comfortable home with a gracious friend—where antiques abound, and the library, private chapel and museum are fascinating. The focal point of the living room is a cozy fireplace. Family-style dinner at Hacienda, at long, antique table in historical dining room. Overnight POTOSI hacienda, below.

Hacienda PotosiNov. 22  Return to Potosi for a fascinating visit to a Cooperative Mine in “Cerro Rico” or rich hill. (Mine Tour is optional. Anyone claustrophobic can stroll around town.) Silver originally mined here is all gone; now they search for lead and other minerals. You will be outfitted with hard hats, slickers, boots and miners’ lamps. Be prepared for walking over muddy gravel through low tunnels for “an unforgettable look at debilitating working conditions of men doing the job from Hell, that should have gone out with the Middle Ages,” says Lonely Planet. Some mines are larger and have larger tunnels, better to visit. If you don’t want to visit the mine, you could visit the handicraft market, or the Royal Mint (Casa de la Moneda). Colonial coins were produced on a variety of interesting equipment, and the building also now includes a museum of colonial treasures. Lunch.

If time, visit the Carmelite Santa Teresa convent with its amazing art and artifacts, then stroll the Handicraft Market, before returning to Sucre for the night. Overnight Sucre.

DSCF2513Nov. 23  Drive out to weaving villages, 52 km. to Potolo. There’s an easy 2 to 4 hour walk through the countryside — possible for anyone interested. The villages of Potolo and Ravelo are indigenous towns where local women weave the well-known Jalq’a red and black textiles, above right, on loom. We will be privileged to visit local homes and see how the people live. These indigenous communities that belong to the Jalq’a ethnic group maintain their traditional culture in the architecture of the houses, the agricultural techniques and especially in the handmade textile production, which is totally unique.Possible to walk in this area, over age-old trails. Overnight SUCRE

Nov. 24  Buffet breakfast, then early morning van (2 hours) to Sunday Tarabuco Market. People living in this area maintain their traditional culture, evident intheir unusual dress, interesting customs, and Quechua language. Men typically wear rounded, black leather helmets, called monteras, reminiscent of the conquistadors’ helmets, with colorful hand-woven ponchos, pants and sandals. Women also wear hand-woven clothing with different hats, and adolescents wear yet another type of hat, a tightly crocheted, rigid, black version called a “tadpole” hat because of the tail down the back.KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

At the colorful, bustling market, villagers from nearby communities converge to purchase or barter for food and supplies. The market is quite touristic, but interesting nevertheless, and they sell some marvelous textiles in nearby stalls/shops. After lunch, we’ll continue back to Sucre. Free afternoon in Sucre. Overnight Sucre.

Nov. 25  Flight back to La Paz. Check back into our hotel, walk down Sacarnaga Street for lunch then spend the rest of the day exploring La Paz on your own. Overnight La Paz.

Nov. 26. Free day in La Paz. Or you could take an optional day trip to the archeological site of Tiawanaku. Our hotel’s tour department has convenient and good Tiawanaku tours which include lunch, for a nominal cost. The Museum of Ethnography and Folklore is very interesting with drawers full of very accessible textiles to admire. (Fine hand-knitted cap from North Potosi Department, below.) Lunch on your own.  Farewell Dinner. Overnight La Paz.

No_PotosiNov. 27 FLY HOME FROM LA PAZ, BOLIVIA. Breakfast only included today. Transportation to airport included this day Please note that we do not make airline reservations, but will be happy to give you the contact info for our good travel agent.

To combine the PERU and BOLIVIA tours, American has good prices on Muli-City fares, for combining the itineraries. FLY into LIMA [code LIM] and FLY home from LA PAZ [code LPB.

BOLIVIA TEXTILE TOUR:  $2750
Single Supplement $400

If you want to join the Bolivia tour but not the Peru tour, you’ll fly into Lima, and then fly home from La Paz, so that you experience the altiplano and Lake Titicaca.

This route is done most easily on American Airlines, at around $1050 now from San Francisco–and the flight one-way to Cuzco is only $144 in November on LAN.

OR call about meeting the group in LaPaz, Bolivia. This possibility will cut 2 days off the itinerary, and the price will be different.

INCLUDED:
• 10 nights accommodation in boutique hotels, historical buildings or private hacienda
• All meals, soft drinks and water with meals (except a few meals on your own, as noted)
• LA PAZ to SUCRE round-trip flights
• All transportation by private van to villages
• All entrance fees to the museums, archaeological sites and group events on the itinerary
• Visits to textile-producing villages near Sucre and Potosi
• 2 Spanish- and English-speaking tour leaders/textile expert to accompany the tour
• Specialized local guide for village tours

Be sure to call Cynthia if you have any questions about these itineraries.

Perhaps you have another idea about combining routes!   1-510-275-3662

Peru: Textiles & Festival

March 10 – 23, 2016 (Arrive March 10; depart for home March 24)

El Senõr de los Temblores LOWThis trip includes the Cuzco Festival of ‘Lord of the Earthquakes,’ Andean highland textile villages, exquisite cuisine, Machu Picchu, and beautiful, colonial Cuzco.

Trip Highlights:
•  See the spectacular ‘Lord of the Earthquakes’ festival in Cuzco.
•  Visit textile villages to meet the knitters and weavers, dyers and spinners.
•  Dine in some of Peru’s most celebrated restaurants.
•  Cooking class and Pisco-tasting in a private home in Miraflores.
•  Thrill to Machu Picchu’s Inca engineering marvels.
•  Savor a traditional village lunch with a local family.
•  Learn about ancient Peru at excellent museums.
•  Remember your fabulous experience with a custom Recipe
and Photo BOOK documenting the trip.

This adventure is organized and led by Cynthia LeCount Samaké (Andean knitting/textile expert with over 30 years travel experience in Peru) and Peruvian, Veronica Samanez from Miraflores, Lima.

Andrea + Little Cynthia-low

Andrea and Little Cynthia!

TRIP DETAILS:
Cynthia (or the hotel driver if after 10 pm.) will meet you at the Lima airport, upon arrival, on March 10. Check into the Hotel El Patio, below, for a good night’s sleep in this charming and cozy place that is overflowing with flowers and greenery, in the upscale Miraflores neighborhood.

In the morning, we’ll all meet at breakfast in the hotel’s downstairs breakfast room. A friendly money-changer will come to the hotel lobby to change our dollar bills to soles, the Peruvian currency. Cynthia will hand out currency conversion charts to use until you get used to the money exchange. The van driver will pick us up at the hotel to begin our adventure in Lima, Peru’s bustling and prosperous capital city.

EL PATIO-LIMALima has world-class museums, flowery parks, and interesting architecture. We’ll spend a very full first day in Lima, seeing the wonderful ceramic and textile collections of the fabulous Rafael Larco Herrera Museum, housed in a beautiful old mansion with flowery gardens. It has been renovated recently, and the presentations are superb, but we still love the old storage section with the floor to ceiling glass shelves of Moche ceramics, like a huge library of pots, all carefully arranged and grouped by subject, crab pots, squash-shaped pots, llama pots, etc. After lunch, we’ll go to the private Amano Museum which has some of the world’s best textile collections–drawers and drawers of amazing pieces. Our Welcome Dinner will be tonight at one of Lima’s many excellent restaurants.

Vero and Cyn

Cynthia and Veronica toast over a plate of causa.

Scallops.Lima.JPG

Next few days in Lima we’ll see the fascinating adobe pre-Inca ruins south of town called Pachacamac, and the huge pyramid right in downtown called Huaca Pucllana. We’ll visit overflowing local produce and food markets where  Limeños shop for everything from purple potatoes and cocoa pods to exotic cheeses and meats.

_DSC3061In Lima, we’ll have a Pisco-tasting and cooking class at a private home in Miraflores. And in our restaurant forays, you will be able to decide what dishes to order. Adventurous meat eaters can try new and surprisingly delicious dishes such as herb-stuffed guinea pig or grilled alpaca, or old favorites like Pollo a la Brasa, grilled chicken.

Peru has a lively restaurant scene with internationally known chefs. In both Lima and Cuzco, we will dine in some of the oldest and most famous, as well as some of the newest and hippest places. Seafood lovers flock to Lima for the tender lime-drenched ceviche, paired with a savory yellow potato causa layered with a mixture of crab or tuna; below. The list is endless! Cuisine differs markedly from Trujillo in the north, to Arequipa in the south, and from dry coastal Lima to the verdant Amazon region– with many fusion elements in between. We’ll sample foods from the jungle to the highlands, and from the desert to the coast.

Best Causa LOW useNext we will fly over the Andes to beautiful Cuzco, 1 hour flight. Then we will drive directly down to the Sacred Valley at lower altitude which will help us to acclimate. Relax at the hotel and the next day we’ll board the train for a ride through beautiful scenery to Machu Picchu National Park (UNESCO Cultural Heritage site). We’ll visit the magical place with a professional English-speaking guide, then have free time in the ruins; overnight in Machu Picchu Village.

Time next morning to visit Machu Picchu site again. The first shuttle bus departs for the site around 5:30 am. People talk of the ‘sunrise’ at MP, but in reality, it is most often clouded over. Maybe you’ll be lucky! Note that you now need a separate ticket to climb Huayna Picchu (the peak in back of MP with a fabulous view of the site) and they are limited. (If you are interested, let me know as soon as possible; so I can get the details to you.)

Hotel Marqueses in Cuzco

Hotel Los Marqueses in Cuzco

The climb to Huayna Picchu is easier than it looks, because there are steps the whole way, and even a firmly attached chain to hang onto, on the steepest part. I have climbed it 3-4 times, and the view is absolutely spectacular from the top! Climbing up to the Gate of the Sun gives a similar breathtaking view. Take the VistaDome train back to Cuzco in the afternoon and check in to our centrally-located and heritage building hotel, right. Eat lunch then stroll around city to acclimate. We’ll stroll downhill to visit Nilda Callanaupa’s excellent Museum at Center for Traditional Textiles of Cuzco, CTTC. Buy white alpaca yarn from the Michell alpaca shop, around the corner from the hotel, for dyeing later in our workshop.

Ocongate-KARIIn the next few days we will drive through beautiful rolling hills of quinua and potato fields, into the highlands to several Andean villages to meet good friends who are amazing knitters and weavers. Picnic lunch in the Pitumarka weaving compound one day, and visit the famous little Andahuaylilas church with its ornate painted ceiling and altar from the 16th C.

In another village high above Cuzco, we will watch other knitters and weavers (every village uses different techniques and motifs for their textiles), then share a traditional lunch of soup and boiled corn with indigenous Quechua speaking friends living there. We will also see traditional Andean foods growing in the fields, such as red amaranth, quinua and quiwicha, native potato varieties, fava and lupine beans, and we’ll try various dishes incorporating them at our village lunch.

We will have a half-day natural dye workshop with the ladies in one village. Color your white alpaca yarn with cochineal, one of their favorite dyes, or another choice from their supply of flowers, leaves and lichen that make their rich colors.

Cuzco cathedralIn Cuzco we’ll peek into the Cathedral to see the famous ‘Last Supper with Guinea Pig’ tableau, continue across the Plaza de Armas, to the street of the 12-angled stone, one fabulous stone in a whole foundation of amazing stonework walls. Walk back down and have American food for lunch at Jack’s, just in case anyone is feeling homesick! Later, walk down Triunfo Street, visiting favorite jewelers, and the suede/textile bootmaker.

Before the festival, there will be time to see Sacsahuayman, the spectacular Inka fortress /ceremonial site above Cuzco. Sacsahuayman is known for amazingly huge stones fitted into zigzag walls, set around a grassy central area. We eat lunch in a restaurant (a friendly place where we go annually) overlooking the main Plaza de Armas, where the statue passes below, and we will have a basket of the traditional red flowers to toss down from the balconies onto the passing statue in the procession–for good luck! You can get some amazing photos by shooting from the restaurant vantage point on the balcony. Once the statue passes below the restaurant, the procession continues to 3 or 4 other churches where the statue’s loincloth is changed in each. The festival is very exciting because of the large numbers of people participating, and the huge and very heavy black Christ statue being carried by over 40 men, who change off every 1/2 block or so to allow another group the honor. The Lord of the Earthquakes is an important religious event for the people of Cuzco.

At the end of the trip, we fly back to Lima and connect with flights for home.  Details on suggested flights to come.

Llama+babyTRIP COST:  $3850
Single Supplement  $450

INCLUDED:
• 14 nights accommodation in boutique or heritage hotels
• All meals, soft drinks and water with meals (except 3 meals on your own in Cuzco/Machu Picchu)
• LIMA – CUZCO round-trip flights
• All transportation within Peru by private van
• All group airport arrival and departure transport on designated arrival day
• All entrance fees to the museums, archaeological sites and group events on the itinerary
• Visits to Andean highland textile villages to meet knitters and weavers
• Natural dye workshop in village (you purchase the white alpaca yarn)
• Spanish- and English-speaking tour leaders/textile expert to accompany the tour
• Private professional, licensed guide at Machu Picchu.
• Pisco-tasting and cooking class in private home in Miraflores.
• Photo and recipe book documenting your cooking class and journey!

NOT INCLUDED:

International airfare, alcoholic beverages, personal items such as laundry and internet costs (most hotels now have free wi-fi), second day entrance and shuttle to Machu Picchu, entrance fee to climb Huayna Picchu.