What to Buy in Morocco: Rugs, Ceramics, Jewelry and more…

There are wonderful things to buy and take home from Morocco. We will visit numerous artisans and you can support them by buying arts and crafts directly from many of them.

We’ll see pretty handwoven pillows and rugs in many places, but felted slippers, leather purses, jackets and slippers, ceramic plates, and unusual button-decorated caftans are also good buys.

Buying a hand-knotted carpet directly from the women’s cooperative, so the maker receives the money directly, is very rewarding. Having the memory of the woman who made that rug, or the artist who painted your beautiful cobalt-blue plate, makes those items so much more meaningful and precious.

Rugs

The striking rugs we’ll see in shops and markets vary greatly in color, technique, detail, size, and quality. So often it just depends on whether you LOVE it or not! Well-made rugs will last longer than any of us, so longevity is not much of an issue. We’ll examine some rugs to see how they are done. All are made by hand,* with different knotting and weaving techniques. Often the motifs and patterning vary by region. Fine tapestry-technique rugs are made in some areas, sometimes called Sunset Rugs. Looms are usually simple upright/vertical looms with two heddles.

Usually the fiber is sheep’s wool, although occasionally camel’s hair or synthetic yarns are used. Vendors know that “we” tourists think camel hair is more exotic and preferable in its uniqueness, so sometimes they’ll claim a certain textile — especially anything tan-brown — is camel hair. A bit of further questioning and cajoling usually reveals the veracity of the claim, or not! (A microscopic examination would tell us the difference instantly.)

And it’s interesting to note that in the last 20+ years, desertification has affected sheep-raising in the eastern rural desert areas. When few sheep can be raised, Berber women buy inexpensive, used, acrylic sweaters in the market — and unravel them for the synthetic colorfast fiber. These rugs (below) have long shaggy pile, bold geometric patterns, and strident color combinations, and it seems people either love them or hate them!

During our trip, we can look carefully at some of these rugs to see the fibers used. We’ll talk later about how to get an idea of rug quality and how to bargain for a woolen rug or other purchase.

Ceramics

When you are shopping in Morocco, ceramics are absolute showstoppers and one of the best things you can bring home. The variety is incredible, ranging from massive, heavily decorated serving platters and iconic conical tagines to gorgeous salad bowls, delicate tea cups, and even hand-carved mosaic zellij tiles. You will find pieces finished in glossy, colorful glazes, as well as beautifully rustic, raw terracotta that adds an earthy vibe to any kitchen. They make perfect statement pieces for a dining table or gorgeous wall art, and the fact that almost every single piece is hand-thrown and hand-painted means you’ll be taking home a true one-of-a-kind treasure.

Different cities specialize in very distinct styles. For the famous, intricate blue-and-white patterns, Fes is the undisputed capital; its potters use a unique gray clay to create highly detailed, sophisticated tableware. Fes pottery is available in many other cities where it is recognizable in the souk stalls.

Traveling south toward the desert, a stop in the village of Tamegroute is exciting for anyone interested in rustic and frankly primitive ceramic processes. The below-ground kick wheels, wood-fired kilns with pieces in a jumble, and the signature copper oxide and manganese glaze, result in a rugged style of shiny green-glazed pottery. You don’t need to go to the desert for green Tamegroute pottery nowadays. It’s very recognizable in the souks of Marrakech which bring regional ceramic styles together under one roof, making it easy to shop a variety of pottery even on a shorter itinerary. Note that Tamegroute products are relatively low-fired (low kiln temperature) and thus not as durable as some other types fired in modern kilns with temperature control.

Baskets

In recent years I’ve been seeing stunning coiled baskets that in my experience, were not available before! First they decorated a wall in the pizza cafe in Erfoud, then I saw a whole display of them in a souk in Marrakech…I’m not certain where they are made; efforts to discover this have had vague results, but it appears they come from the northeastern part of the country. In any case, they are well-made with fine coiling and stitching, and striking colorful zigzag patterns.

Whether you’re drawn to a hand-knotted carpet, felted slippers, or a cobalt-blue plate, shopping in Morocco means taking home something made by hand — and often meeting the person who made it. Come see it for yourself on one of our textile tours to Morocco.

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About The Author: Cynthia Samake

Cynthia began “Behind the Scenes Adventures” to share the traditional textiles and festivals of far-flung countries. Since 1998 she has led small groups of textile fanatics all over the world. Specializing in indigenous clothing and textiles, and the festival costume of Bolivia. You can read more of her writing in Piecework and Fiber Arts Now. Her new book, Textile Traveler’s Guide to Peru and Bolivia was published by Thrums Press in 2019.

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