There are wonderful things to buy and take home from Morocco. We will visit numerous artisans and you can support them by buying arts and crafts directly from many of them.
We’ll see pretty handwoven pillows and rugs in many places, but felted slippers, leather purses, jackets and slippers, ceramic plates, and unusual button-decorated caftans are also good buys.
Buying a hand-knotted carpet directly from a women’s cooperative, so the maker receives the money directly, is very rewarding. Having the memory of the woman who made that rug, or the artist who painted your beautiful blue and white plate, makes those items so much more meaningful and precious.
Rugs
The striking rugs we’ll see in shops and markets vary greatly in color, technique, detail, size, and quality. So, often it just depends on whether you LOVE it or not! Well-made rugs will last longer than any of us, so longevity is not much of an issue. We’ll examine some rugs to see how they are done. All are made by hand, with different knotting and weaving techniques. In the past, motifs and patterning varied by region but now disparate styles are created in different areas. Fine tapestry-technique rugs are made in some areas, sometimes called Sunset Rugs, below left. Looms are usually simple upright/vertical looms with two heddles. We’ll see women at work when we take a day trip out of Ouarzazate–and there are many superb rugs to choose from, at reasonable fixed prices, no hassle or pushy haggling!
Usually the fiber is sheep’s wool, although occasionally camel’s hair or synthetic yarns are used. Vendors know that “we” tourists think camel hair is more exotic and preferable in its uniqueness, so sometimes they’ll claim a certain textile — especially anything tan-brown — is camel hair. A bit of further questioning and cajoling usually reveals the veracity of the claim, or not! (A microscopic examination would tell us the difference instantly.)
And it’s interesting to note that in the last 20+ years, desertification has affected sheep-raising in the eastern rural desert areas. When few sheep can be raised, Berber women buy inexpensive, used, acrylic sweaters in the market — and unravel them for the synthetic colorfast fiber. These rugs (below) have long shaggy pile, bold geometric patterns, and strident color combinations of recycled yarns. It seems people either love them or hate them!
During our trip, we can look carefully at some of these rugs to see the fibers used. We’ll talk later about how to get an idea of rug quality and how to bargain for a woolen rug or other purchase. If you think there is a remote possibility of your falling in love with a gorgeous rug, come prepared with approximate measurements and idea of color. Some organized people have been known to bring color chips of paint from the destination room!
Ceramics
When you are shopping in Morocco, ceramics are absolute showstoppers and one of the best things you can bring home. The variety is incredible, ranging from massive, heavily decorated serving platters and iconic conical tagines to gorgeous salad bowls, delicate tea cups, and even hand-cut mosaic zellij tiles. You will find ceramic pieces finished in glossy, colorful glazes, as well as beautifully rustic, terracotta that adds an earthy vibe to any kitchen. They make perfect statement pieces for a dining table or gorgeous wall art, and the fact that almost every single piece is hand-thrown and hand-painted means you’ll be taking home a true one-of-a-kind treasure. We’ll also see pieces decorated with a veneer of small mosaic pieces, called zellij. The ceramics studios will ship home by DHL large ceramic vases and mosaic tile tables, fountains and so forth.
Different cities specialize in very distinct ceramics styles. For the famous, intricate blue-and-white patterns, Fes is the undisputed capital. Potters there use a unique gray clay to create highly detailed, sophisticated tableware. Fes pottery is available in many other cities where it is recognizable in the souk stalls.
Traveling south toward the desert, a stop in the village of Tamegroute is exciting for anyone interested in rustic and frankly primitive ceramic processes. The below-ground kick wheels, wood-fired kilns with pieces in a jumble, and the signature copper oxide and manganese glaze, result in a rugged style of shiny green-glazed plates, candle-holders, small tajines and other shapes, top center photo above.
You don’t need to go to the desert for green Tamegroute pottery nowadays. It’s very recognizable in the souks of Marrakech which bring regional ceramic styles together under one roof, making it easy to shop a variety of pottery even on a shorter itinerary. Note that Tamegroute products are relatively low-fired (low kiln temperature) and thus not as durable as some other types fired in modern kilns with temperature control.
Travelers are often nervous about getting a plate or bowl home. I’ve found that settling one in the middle of your clothes, in a hard-side suitcase works quite well – as long as all the contents are tightly packed and cannot move around during transit. If you love ceramics, bring a roll of bubble-wrap!
Baskets
In recent years I’ve been seeing stunning coiled baskets that in my experience, were not available before! First they decorated a wall in the pizza cafe in Erfoud, then I saw a whole display of them in a souk in Marrakech…I’m not certain where they are made; efforts to discover this have had vague results, but it appears they come from the northeastern part of the country. In any case, they are well-made with fine coiling and stitching, and striking colorful zigzag patterns.
Whether you’re drawn to a hand-knotted carpet, felted slippers, or a cobalt-blue plate, shopping in Morocco means taking home something made by hand — and often meeting the person who made it. Come see it for yourself on one of our textile tours to Morocco.
Silver Jewelry
The souks of Marrakech, Essaouira and Fes abound with wonderful silver jewelry. We’ll see some museum examples to give you an introduction before we shop.
There are earrings of all possible shapes including Berber designs such as the free-man symbol and Hamsa or protective hands of Fatima, ranging from tiny charm- or earring-size to huge decorative wall decorations, top left photo. Curvilinear designs on the hand symbols are usually chased or engraved by hand; less expensive versions are commercially pressed in factories. Some of the jewelry we’ll see in the souks is very old, expensive, and made from coin silver. The rest is typically a low-purity silver alloy, or good quality 925 ‘sterling’ silver. As in the case of the rugs, the material and manufacture aren’t too important if you love the look of the piece. If you want, we and vendors we know will help you get an authentic handmade piece – or at least to be informed of the quality you are purchasing.
Many necklaces are heavy and complex, combining silver pieces and silver chain with big ‘amber’ beads and smaller coral rounds, and even inset pieces of colored glass. Some Berber jewelry is also created in the enameled cloisonné technique, with yellow and blue or green enamel fused into areas surrounded by raised silver wire. (The Asian cloisonné technique instead features enamel designs melted then ground to a flat surface.)
Silver triangles with a hinged, sharp-pointed pin or rod, are called fibulas. These clever accessories are used to fasten a woman’s garment at the shoulders. We’ll visit several favorite jewelers where you can watch them at work, and who will tell you honestly of the origin and materials of their creations. Historically made by traditional silversmiths, these pieces act as portable wealth, family identity, and protective amulets for women.
Brass lamps in an infinite number of shapes are found in many souk stalls in the medinas. Most are pierced and shaped by hand but there is some commercial production of these nowadays
